Bringing it back “home”. OHIO to OREGON

Greetings Family and Friends!

I finally have the bandwidth to upload photos and catch you up on the rest of my trip, which came to a stop in beautiful Brookings Oregon. I took some time to decompress and reflect on all the good people I’d met, and the “nomadic” life in general.  I hiked daily in the sequoia stronghold appreciating the beauty of our fragile Earth who needs our care and contemplating how I can best be of service.  As of this post I’ll be visiting with my California family, before spending the winter near Joshua Tree. 

But for now, let me start where I left off last time… 

Kate the Van and I were in Pennsylvania heading west to visit with my brother Chris in Proctor, Montana.  He had busy schedule with visitors and a horseback camping trip coming up, so I hastened to arrive before the 4^th of July. It would take 2 weeks to get there, and mark 3 months of being on the road when I got there. 

OHIO

I traveled briskly around the Great Lakes states bringing to mind how we say LMNOP in the alphabet.  Going through Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Wisconsin, and Minnesota… so…OIIWM.  Not quite as catchy 😉 

To get in a 5 mile daily walk I planned a place to stop and explore each day.  A favorite place in Ohio was the Wildwood Preserve in Toledo which is a 453-acre park of historical and ecological significance. It was created by the sheer will of a few 1970’s radicals, and the toil of an army of community volunteers. The manor house, stables, and other buildings have been lovingly restored, and the natural areas beautifully conserved.  I saw a group of children with their teacher in a field, and many people biking and walking on clear sunny day.  If you’re interested there’s a PBS video titled “Wildwood: Land as Good as Gold”. 

After a week of somewhat rustic camping in the Allegheny National Forest I was SO ready for a sparkling clean private shower room, and the KoA I stayed in delivered.  Formerly a farm, the owners live in the large white farmhouse, and converted their red barn into an dining and activity hall.  I took advantage of the pool, floating around watching the birds at dinner time when all the families were around their fire pits making dinner.  

Leaving the next morning I passed a few Amish folks driving horse drawn carts and buggies. I realized that what I’d thought were extra wide bike lanes were buggy lanes. When I drove by a young woman in a long dress and head covering on a lawn mower tractor, I wondered what the rules were.  Is motorized farm equipment OK, but automobiles are not?  I need to do some research. 

INDIANA (+ ILLINOIS…sort of)

It’s fun to say, “hey Google…post office near me” and hop off a two-lane highway for a short trip into small towns with lovely homes, parks, and little shops.  I mailed a letter from the Middlebury Indiana post office and wish I’d taken photos there. It could not have been more delightfully Americana. I kept seeing in my mind Judy GarIand singing “Meet Me in St. Louis” from one of those porches.  I shot some video and will make a short movie of the entire trip to upload on YouTube soon.  There are many photos and videos I’m not posting here. 

On a daily walkabout I stopped at the 2000+ acre Indiana Dunes State Park on Lake Michigan.

There were many trails, and I chose one that ran along a river. I had my first encounter with an Ebony Jewelwing, or black-winged damselfly.   It had long thin black wings and an iridescent blue body.  Such a dazzling color combination, like Art deco jewelry. My cell phone battery died, so the photo credit for the damselfly goes to the

USGS Bee Inventory and Monitoring Lab.

I stayed in Rockford Illinois, but it was an exceptionally long driving day and I didn’t stop anywhere interesting, so I only “sort of” saw Illinois. 

WISCONSIN

I really want to go back.  It is so pretty, and the people are so nice.  I’ve heard of “Canada Nice”, but seriously, there should be a “Wisconsin Nice”.    

Madison was the cleanest city I’ve ever seen outside of Switzerland.  I walked all around downtown, and something seemed strange. Then I realized there was ZERO graffiti.  The imposing state capital building is located on an isthmus between Lake Mendota and Lake Monona. Someone left a little clay statue of Bob Ross on a capitol building wall which cracked me up.   In Covid times they had a lot of outdoor seating in front of their café’s giving downtown a cosmopolitan feel.  There were bike and walking paths along the lakes, and even though I was there on a day with intermittent rain, I was smitten with how inviting the area was. 

I visited the volunteer-tended Period Garden Park 

There were many attractive apartments nearby with signs to attract university students.  I wondered if there were summer sublets. I bet it would be fun to spend a summer there. 

Kate and I stayed a few nights at Mirror Lake State Park with its glass-like 137-acre lake, and nicely marked and maintained trails.  It features a tranquil Frank Lloyd Wright cottage which is available as a rental.

I also meandered through the 400-acre Governor Nelson State Park across Lake Mendota from Madison.  I could just make out the capitol building from the boat dock through the rain.

MINNESOTA

Sometimes the way Google Maps directs one might not be the best way.  From Madison to the Minneapolis / St. Paul Area the suggestion was the main interstate. But I wanted to drive along the Mississippi River and stop at Lake City (because it looked interesting).  So I opted for Route 61, and truly enjoyed traveling next to the river and train tracks.

There were little river islands with some old paddle boats and other vessels docked by homes and businesses. Periodically a Canadian Pacific freight train with its distinctive red engine would pass by hauling a long queue of cars.  It was good to see so many wetland areas between the river and the train tracks with migrating herons and egrets taking advantage of them.  You pass through a few small towns with roadside restaurants along the way. 

I stopped for lunch near Lake City at Hok Si La Park which offers campsites and cabins to rent. It has a nice beach which was absolutely deserted.  I sat at a picnic table and enjoyed a leisurely PB&J and apple whilst watching the river flow.

NORTH DAKOTA

The drive from Minnesota to North Dakota was dotted with ponds, farmhouses, migratory waterbirds, and pheasants.  I was heading to Fort Ransom State Park not far from Fargo.  It offers several hiking, biking, and equestrian trails.  They have a special RV area that accommodates horse trailers and has adjoining paddocks so you can keep an eye on your steeds.  The paddocks come with wheelbarrows, rakes, and shovels for manure management.  The scent of manure takes me immediately back to my youth when raking it over an embankment was one of my chores. 

Frequently I’ve gone to a place on the recommendation of someone at a campsite who has been curious about Kate the Van, and struck up a conversation with me.  A woman at Fort Ransom steered me towards the town of Medora. What a great tip that was!  It reminded me of Sedona a bit.  The way the rock formations are such prominent features, the small tourist town surrounded by the vast beauty of the area…in this case Theodore Roosevelt National Park.

My phone camera can’t capture the scope and depth of this magnificent area, so I’ll steer you to the park Instagram page to give a fuller impression: 

In North Dakota…and many stops along this trip I’ve been captivated by the stories of people who have settled there.  I’ve felt respect for every pioneer woman I’ve read about in museums and learned how they homesteaded, or staffed post offices and general stores. Building lives out of the dirt with their resolution and hard work.  We have it so take so much for granted in these modern times.   

Not that everyone was struggling.  In Medora a French Marquis and his wealthy American heiress wife built the Chateau de Mores (read that big house and hunting lodge) where they laced up their boots with house guest Teddy Roosevelt…who judging from the photos on the wall was an attractive young man who endured his share of tragedy.  The Marquesa was apparently a better shot than the Marquis, which is probably a good thing as the Marquis was involved in numerous duels, being quick to anger, and arrested for murder more than once. 

An actor did a “History Alive” presentation, and good job of channeling an elderly former Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) worker who had lived when the “chateau” was converted into a state historic location and Theodore Roosevelt State Park was being created.  Among other things they unearthed during that time were 200 bottles of French wine. 

The North Dakota Heritage Center and State Museum had a French Gratitude Train on its grounds.  It was one of 49 such boxcars presented to the people of the US and laden with gifts.  In 1947 America sent a Friendship Train through France and Italy carrying carloads of food, fuel, and clothing donated by our citizens after WWII.  Boxcars like the one I saw at this museum were a thank you from the French people.  I’d never heard of this gesture of gratitude before. 

Entering North Dakota, the scenery turned from green to golden brown.  I’d been making mental notes about where I might like to live during this trip.  There were areas in the south that surprised me with their green allure, but because I’m so drawn to swimming in fresh water… and there were alligators the waters there…those are off the list.  Similarly, as much as I appreciate the beauty the desert can offer, I’m happiest in mossy forests with ferns, even though they are attended by rain.  Rain is a blessing I’m always happy to greet and even hike in (with the proper gear).  Where I will settle in post-retirement is getting a bit clearer. Staying in the western states near my son’s is the most important factor.

MONTANA

About 100 miles into Montana, I crossed over the Yellowstone River. It’s scale within the colossal valley between immense mountain ranges is stunning.  I remembered meeting a German girl who told me of her impressions of America and said, “the sky is so much bigger here”.  The Montana expanses of sky and land are truly astonishing. 

I stopped for a few nights in Miles City, then in Billings where I popped into the Western Heritage Museum for the “Women Ranchers” exhibit. The photography was striking and the women in the photos appeared as strong in character as they were physically in doing the demanding work of a rancher.  

Bozeman Montana is happening!  It reminded me of the town of Alameda near San Francisco where I used to live.  Down the main drag were unique shops and eateries.  The older buildings were in excellent repair, including log cabins, Art Deco civic buildings, homes from the 1800’s, and some funky 1950’s motels spruced up and looking shiny.  I visited the Gallatin History Museum in the former town jail building with some terrific historical photos and a nicely curated collection. 

As I drove over a hill and saw the valley where my brother Chris lives I was awed by the vista.  HUGE mountains with a deep glacier gouged valley, and the gorgeous Flathead Lake.  Acres of brilliant yellow fields which the locals informed me were canola plants. 

Chris built his home with his own hands.  He and his partner Charlene wake up each morning to a peaceful pastoral view.  To sit on their porch with a cup of coffee and watch the day start is quite the treat.  They keep horses which they ride and camp with. 

A highlight of my trip was the fabulous day we spent boating on Flathead Lake (one of the worlds cleanest lakes and the largest in America west of the Mississippi).  We launched the boat after breakfast and didn’t get it back out until the sun was down and moon up.  At Wild Horse Island we anchored and went for a walk but didn’t see any of the wild horses.  Just before sunset we stopped at a dock and picked up a friend of Chris’s who grew up on the lake. He regaled us with stories about the lake and its islands.  Allegedly there was a “cat house” on one of the islands, and we motored by its ruins where locals used to rummage for bottles and other artifacts.  A smaller island I was curious about had nothing on it but a manicured lawn and sprinklers.  It was the former home of some wealthy owners whose house burned to the ground, but the family kept the bare scenic island for picnics and such. 

In addition to Flathead Lake, Lake Mary Ronan is just down the street from Chris and Charlene’s place. We enjoyed breakfast at the adorable Crawdad Café at Camp Tuffit on the shore. 

IDAHO

After a fun visit in Proctor, I was off to Sandpoint Idaho to see my brother Rob and his wife Deb.  It’s not a long drive between them, but I decided to spend a night and take a swim in Thompson Falls Recreation Area on my way.  

Sandpoint is located on Lake Pend Oreille which I’m told is pronounced “Ponderay”, and loosely translated means earring.  The lake is so deep in parts that submarine testing has been done here, and it was the location of a WWII Naval base built after Pearl Harbor.  The water in this spectacular lake is crystal clear, and it’s surrounded by two state parks with both fee-based and free camping opportunities.  My favorite place to swim was a short walk along the shore from Beaver Bay in Farragut State Park.  Being surrounded by dense trees and mountains, swimming in that blue green clear water felt like living in a Maxfield Parrish painting.  I’ll be dreaming about swimming in that location for a long time to come. 

While Deb was at work Rob and I swam at Springy Point, a short drive from their house.  There was a heat wave hitting the western USA and even this far north it was darn hot.  They are so fortunate to have this wonderful swimming area just a rock’s throw from their home. 

Rob and Deb have a beautiful place and a healthy lifestyle.  Rob took me to his favorite health food store where I reveled in the salad bar, and we brought back vittles for dinner with Deb.  It was wonderful to spend a few days with engaged in conversation with these two and take in their surroundings. It’s easy to see why they fell in love with the area years ago and raised their family here. 

After a delightful visit I was on my way to Idaho Falls to see my niece Taegan and her bright young son JT.  To get there I wound my way through St. Regis, Missoula, and other Montana towns before reentering Idaho. 

There were (and as of this writing still are) multiple fires burning in California and Oregon, and the haze from their smoke became noticeable as I drove into Montana.  It grew worse in Northern Idaho, and as I drove south the smoke was so thick, I almost completely stopped taking photos. 

Taegen and I drove to the gravesite of my former parents-in-law Nellie and George McCandless.  Two of the best humans to ever walk this earth.  George was a WWII vet and prisoner of war, and like many of the Greatest Generation never talked about it.  Nellie was pure love personified.  The expression “Salt of the Earth” was invented for these two.  The love, humor, and inside jokes that went into the creation of their gravestone by their children was a joy to behold. We would all do well to be as cherished.   

On my way to Boise to visit more of the McCandless clan Taegen recommended I stop at Shoshone Falls.  So, I booked a couple of nights at the Twin Falls KoA.  Seeking a place to swim and cool off, I discovered Dierkas Lake which is included in the Shoshone Falls Park admission price.  Many families were there swimming, kayaking, and stand up paddling.  This 2 minute YouTube video from the “Igy the Van” channel shows both the falls and the lake.

In Boise I met up with my former sister-in-law Teresa, and brother-in-law Matt, his wife Laurie, and their two cool kids Bailey and Sam.  We had lunch at a restaurant in Boise’s green belt, a wonderful civic feature along the Boise River with bike and pedestrian paths, dog parks, restaurants, hotels, brew pubs, a popular whitewater/surfing park, and more.  This was the last family visit of my trip with folks I don’t get to see often, and I savored every moment of it. 

OREGON

I drove back to the west coast through Burns and Bend Oregon then stayed in the Willamette Valley in Corvallis where Oregon State University is located.  After a short stay I drove to an RV park in Roseburg, a town located in the Umpqua River Valley.  I wanted to explore some parts of Oregon I hadn’t seen before. 

But pulling into Brookings, Oregon near the California Border after all the heat…I had never been so happy to see fog in my life! Brookings was one of the first places I traveled to after I bought and built out Kate the Van.  It was on the way to a tiny home village I wanted to see.  I had this funny feeling then that Brookings might be the place I’d want to settle in post-retirement.  This visit reaffirmed that feeling, and I’m going to come back up in early spring to experience the rainy season. 

I’ve been thinking about tiny houses for years, but recently I’ve seen some modern trailers that are basically portable tiny homes or “mom pods” on wheels.  The ability to get up and move your home from one location to another is attractive to me.  When I got Kate the Van I had no idea if I’d like the mobile life, but I LOVE it.

Living in an RV park seems more appealing than apartment living for a few reasons other than mobility.  There are strictly enforced quiet hours, and if you dishonor them the management will give you the boot without a refund and you are not welcome back. That’s what I call a deterrent to obnoxious behavior!  Also, there is an unwritten RV park etiquette wherein folks are friendly but would never dream of knocking on your van or RV.  They will only say hello when they see you outside.  It’s a formula for peaceful and respectful coexistence, something that doesn’t always happen in apartment buildings. 

I don’t know where “home” will be yet.  There is much I will be ruminating on now that I’ve made the first big trip in Kate the Van.  What an incredible experience.  So many good people out there, so many interesting places to see.  Such a blessing to spend time and talk story with family and friends. 

Thanks so much for sharing my travel adventures with me.  I’ll get a video covering the full trip made, uploaded to YouTube, and embedded in a post here fairly soon. Meanwhile…

May the Forest be With You,

arica